Showing posts with label FTE 4x4 Specialists Ltd.. Show all posts
Showing posts with label FTE 4x4 Specialists Ltd.. Show all posts

Tuesday, 18 September 2012

Do you have reduced steering lock?

So why do I need a FTE Steering Damper Relocation Bracket ? See photo below!

Reduced steering lock due to steering damper bind. 
As you can see from the photos above the left hand lock (sitting in the Jeep) is a lot less then the right hand lock! The reason for this is two fold, the Wrangler is fitted with an aftermarket steering damper which is larger in diameter then the stock unit, and the drag link is running at a steeper angle due to a lift kit being fitted. As you can see from the photo below the steering damper is binding against the drag link when on left hand lock.

Steering damper bind on drag link

The FTE Steering Damper Relocation Bracket kit is designed to be a bolt on unit and moves the axle end mount up by 40mm giving clearance.

FTE 4x4 Steering Damper Relocation Bracket

Check back next week, when there will be a full install.

Wednesday, 15 August 2012

Not all hubs are the same

I have just had a customer’s 98 Wrangler in for a squeaking noise.Dust Shield

On stripping down the front hubs a bright wear mark could be seen on the dust shield, on the N/S.  On checking the hub, it was found to be a 2000>2006 hub. In 2000 Jeep changed the hub off-set by approximately 5mm, requiring the disc to have a shallower off-set. There is no reason why you can not run later hubs on a pre 2000 Jeep but you must change the discs to match.

The garage that carried out this work, could not been aware of the change that Jeep introduced. On the O/S the Wrangler was still running the stock 98 hub. So be aware, make sure the garage you use knows about Jeeps, otherwise they can cause more problems then they fix. 

 

Hubs

Thursday, 17 November 2011

Heavy Duty Front Ball Joint Sets For the Dana 30 /44 Axles

Fed up having to replace the knuckle ball joints on your Jeep because they just don’t seem to last, running over size tyres and off-set wheels puts a lot more strain on the knuckle ball joints. When you see what is inside the stock Jeep ball joint you will understand why they wear out so quick. The photo below shows a pair of stock ball joints stripped down.stock_ball_jointWell Synergy Suspension have the answer with there new heavy duty ball joint sets, available for the Jeep Wrangler JK, TJ/LJ, YJ, Cherokee XJ, and Grand Cherokee ZJ & WJ (Dana 30/44). Fully greasable sintered metal on bushing design.
H/D Upper Ball Joint Dana 30/44H/D Lower Ball Joint Dana 30/44

  • Designed to replace the factory ball joint that is prone to premature failure on lifted vehicles with large off-road tires
  • Fully greasable sintered metal on bushing design that has high wear resistance
  • Outperforms the factory ball joint assembly
  • Ball joint boot is made from tear/wear resistant polyurethane
  • Includes all necessary hardware for installation
  • Single Set includes: (1) upper, (1) lower
  • Complete Set includes: (2) upper, (2) lower
  • 12 Month Unlimited-Warranty

Available from FTE 4x4 Specialists Ltd 07973 198483, who are now dealers for Synergy Suspension.

synergy_logo

Thursday, 20 October 2011

Not All Wheel Spacers Are The Same

Recently I had a Cherokee XJ brought into me with some strange noises and even stranger handling, the ability for it to go in a straight line above 20mph was almost none existent without some serious sawing on the steering wheel! At first glance underneath nothing jumped out, the wheels did have a little bit of negative camber, but I have seen a lot worst. First point to check was the wheel hubs, but as soon as I removed the front wheels the true horror was apparent.

To push the stock wheels out to give clearance for the 31x10.50 tyres wheel spacers had been fitted, not normally a problem, if the they are the correct type and fitted correctly. But these particular spaces I have not seen fitted to vehicles since the late 70’s early 80’s. They use a screw on stud extension that is tightened onto the original hub / disc then a hollow cast spacer is slid over the extension studs and the wheels then fitted back on. They work, but are definitely not designed to be used for big tyre set-ups or off-road use.

The spacer will float between the wheel and disc/hub.The extension studs as fitted to the hub!!In this instance they were dangerous, as they had not been fitted correctly, (the work had not been carried out by the current owner, he had only just taken possession of the Cherokee) as you can see from the photos the screw on extensions did not have a deep enough bore to allow them to be tighten on to the hub. So when the spacer plate was fitted it was floating, with the wheel fitted it pulled up against the hex section of stud extension so the whole loading was being placed on the five hexes, allowing the wheel to basically flex on the extension studs. This did not only cause the steering to wander, but put a lot of strain on the hubs and brakes as the discs were not clamped tight to the hubs, it caused excessive wear to the brake pads and discs which had to be changed. One hub survived the ordeal the the other was replaced.

New Rugged Ridge billet spacers were fitted. These are constructed of double anodized black extra thick 6061T6 Aluminium for long life and extra corrosion resistance. All hardware is grade 8 for extra strength. They include 10 pre-installed grade 8 wheel studs, 10 lug nuts and thread locker. So as you can see from the photos below not all wheel spacers are the same!

A very old style spacer not recommended for 4x4 use The difference bewteen a billet spacer and the ols style cast hollow spacer. The new Rugged Ridge billet spacer fitted ready for the wheel.

FTE 4x4 Specialists Ltd can supply the Rugged Ridge spacers, for more information send us an email to info@fte.co.uk

Monday, 19 September 2011

More Clearance For Under JK Rear Shock Mounts

lower_mount1 If you own a Wrangler JK then you must have seen how low the the shock mounts sit on the rear axle, normally the pumpkin part of the axle is the lowest part but in the case of the Wrangler JK it is also the shock mounts.

Now there are many kits on the market that will raise the lower shock mounts on the axle, a very good example is Synergy Suspension units, it raises lower shock mount 1-3/8" higher than stock. Bolt-on design that strengthens the factory control arm mount and also provides a skid plate for the lower controls arm mount. In all one neat little package.


upper_mount1

The only problem with raising the lower shock mounts is now your shock are to long and there is a good chance that the shock will now bottom out. One option would be to fit taller bump stops but this will limit the suspension travel. Well Synergy Suspension have the answer to this, in the form of a new upper shock mount, that is a bolt-in fit and will raise the upper shock mount by 2” (50mm), gain back the travel lost with raising the lower mounts. The brackets come powder-coated with all necessary hardware to install. Modification of stock exhaust will be needed to clear the factory sway bar.

upper_shock_mount

Another option to improve the shock location and to stop the usually problem of the top bar pin is to use a bar-pin eliminator, Synergy Suspension make a neat bracket that works well with there upper shock brackets, although it could be used on the stock mounts just to get rid of the problem that occurs with the top bar pin mount.

FTE 4x4 Specialists Ltd. will soon be offering Synergy Suspension components to the UK, this is only a very small selection of the components they have. They cover most models of Jeep, TJ,JK, YJ,XJ, & ZJ and have some rather interesting parts on offer. As they say “watch this space”.

Thursday, 7 July 2011

Wrangler Resurrection is alive and kicking

 


Back at the beginning of February I wrote a blog about an old Wrangler and a new project called “Wrangler Resurrection” well it has not been forgotten, it is just that work has got extremely busy (no complaints) so my projects get moved onto the back burner. But I have been collecting parts ready to start, the rear suspension is going to be the first item to get a makeover. The Wrangler is already fitted with a Rubicon Express long arm kit, but to upgrade the rear suspension I am going to convert it over to a triangulated upper link, and remove the rear trac-bar. This should free up the suspension giving greater articulation, I am going to use a Rock Krawler weld-on rear axle mount and brace.

 

 

The upper spring mounts are also going to be altered using the
Black Diamond's Coil Correction Kit, this will corrects the curvature of the rear spring. Meaning they can do there job more efficiently, the problem is even evident at 3" of lift height, and becomes more of an issue as lift height increases. This incorrect coil loading results in lost ride height and a diminished "too soft" spring rate.

I Another item on the rear that is going to get modified is the shock mounts, at present I am undecided with which manufacturer to go with, but the intent is to turret the shocks outboard of the chassis. This will allow for greater articulation, and I will be using a Currie Enterprise coil spring retainer kit to make sure I do not pop any springs.

As for the front suspension I would like to convert over to coil overs, as I intend to change the front axle, to a highrk_coil_over pinion unit then this will be the time I would do the work. There are many kits on the market to do this, again I am looking at using the Rock Krawler set-up. This involves cutting off the original spring/shock mounts from the chassis and welding in complete new mounts. Part of my reason to convert over to this style of front suspension is with the front diff angled correctly, the springs are bowed a considerable amount with with a 5.5” lift. One option is to cut the spring mounts of the axle and reposition them, but that seems like the ideal time to think of an upgrade!

Another item that is getting a serious makeover is the steering linkage, as once a Wrangler TJ (or a Cherokee XJ and Grand Cherokee ZJ) is lifted more then 4” then the steering is a compromise. There are many kits on the market is you own a LHD Jeep, but for us RHD owners the market is very limited. For the pass 12 months I have been trying different configurations and I am at long last very close to an answer. My main itinerary was it should be a bolt-on set-up, with the minimum of part changes, so it could be done by an owner of a vehicle rather then having to take the vehicle to a specialist workshop. As soon as I have tested the set-up, ( I have plenty of volunteers who want to test it for me) and am happy with the results, I will be publishing it here first. So as they say watch this space.

All parts that I am using in this project are available from FTE 4x4 Specialists Ltd so if you have any questions then feel free to contact me. Also don’t forget to check out our face book page  

Sunday, 12 June 2011

May not contain all you need!

Recently I was asked if I could check over a Cherokee that had a 3” lift kit fitted, to make sure bolts were torqued correctly, and such like. Once I had the Jeep on the ramp I gave it a good look over and a couple of items came to light very quickly one was serious. As you can see from the photo the suspension is almost on full drop with hardly any steering lock, and the brake line is ready tight and pulling. As you can imagine in an off-road situation with the Jeep articulated up and full lock being put on I doubt very much that the brake line would hold. Resulting in no front brakes not an ideal position to be in. So when fitting a lift kit it is always a good idea to cycle the suspension through its full travel and check. That way the next problem I found would have come to light as well.
The second problem I found was, there were no front bumpstop extensions fitted, now this is not as serious a problem as with the brake lines, but can still end up costing money. The gap between the the axle pad and the bumpstop on the front suspension with the vehicle sitting at rest was 4.75” the length of the shock rod left showing was 4”. So before the bumpstop can do it work at full compression the shock would bottom out and would act as the bumpstop. This would eventually end up damaging the piston rod and valve, resulting in new shocks being needed.
Not all suspension kits have all the parts you require in the box so to say when fitting the lift. Just because the parts are not in the box does not mean that you do not need them. When buying a lift kit if you are not sure ask, if they recommend any other components that may be required, it could end up saving you a lot of money in the long run and giving you a reliable rig as well.
If you have questions regarding your Jeep suspension, then give me a ring at FTE 4x4 Specialists Ltd. We can always advise and point you in the right direction.

Monday, 30 May 2011

Back to Basic “What is a SYE?”

Recently I have had a couple of guys that are just getting into Jeeping with stock Wrangler TJ’s (Yes there are still a few around) and one of the first questions I get asked is “What is a slip yoke eliminator (SYE) or short shaft conversion).

So here is the one on one on the SYE, there are a few different versions around but basically they are do the same job. They eliminate the sliding yoke joint on the transfer box end of the rear prop shaft, why would you want to do that? Well if you look at the rear prop shaft on the Wrangler TJ and YJ (not so much the YJ) it is very short and once you lift the suspension 2+” (50+mm) the angle the prop will run at will cause problems maybe vibration and at full articulation the yoke could bind.


The stock set-up on a Wrangler TJ.

The shaft that the stock sliding yoke runs on.

The heavy duty slip yoke eliminator fitted.

The SYE installed in the Wrangler and fitted with a new prop shaft, note that the sliding joint is now in the prop shaft tube. Also using a double UJ joint (Americans refer to this as a CV joint) on the transfer box end allows for a lot more articulation so eliminating bind on higher lifts.

Another advantage of fitting a Heavy Duty SYE is the increase in strength of the output shaft, as you can see from the photo below the increase diameter of the shaft.


As I said at the beginning of this article there are many different versions on the SYE, some involve cutting the stock shaft down, drilling and fitting a flange. Another version does away with the speedo drive cog converting to impulse output but also making the short shaft conversion about 1.5” shorter allowing for a longer prop shaft which helps with the higher lifts.

So if you are think of lifting your Wrangler more then a couple of inches then you are probably going to need a SYE so for more information or advice contact FTE 4x4 Specialists Ltd.

Tuesday, 24 May 2011

J33P in Normade

For the past few days I have been in France with J33P Off-Road Adventure club on the Friday it was green laning lead by fwdfwd.com some great lanes, with a few water crossing not very deep as they have not had any rain in the region for a couple of months but still entertaining as the photos show.
Dsc_1896  Dsc_1935 Dsc_1930

On the Saturday and Sunday it was off to fwdfwd.com site for some more challenging routes. At there site they have a great range of terrain, as based in a valley it has some very steep climbs and descents, along with some rock crawling and of cause water. Below are some photos curtsey of Ivan Morley showing what a great time was had by all. Thanks to everyone involved in organising the event, it ran like clockwork. 
 

If you are interested in getting involved off-road then take a look at J33P site which is sponsored by FTE 4x4 Specialists Ltd